The Man Who Paddled from Toronto to New York
Plus: line-up announcements for the Festival of Bizarre Toronto History, our sporting past at Doors Open, and more...
It was a little after sunrise when they set out, paddling away from shore on a summer morning in 1919. It was the beginning of an extraordinary journey. Preston Bryant and J. Clarke were attempting to do something no one had done in all the years since the city of Toronto had been founded. It was a death-defying feat not even their own friends thought they could pull off. The two Torontonians were going to cross Lake Ontario by canoe.
It had all started with a friendly argument. Clarke was a member of the Excelsior Club, one of several local groups with that name. I suspect this one was a rowing club whose members would have had plenty of experience paddling through our waters. But Clarke claimed he could do something none of them had ever done before. He told them he thought he could canoe all the way across the lake, from Toronto to Niagara. It was an audacious statement. They didn't believe him. It simply couldn't be done.
The press would later claim no one had ever done it before. That was probably an exaggeration. The First Nations and their ancestors have been paddling through the waters of Lake Ontario for thousands of years. At some point during those countless generations of human history in this place, someone must have done it. We certainly have records of extraordinary journeys from recent centuries. Early French explorers travelled up the Toronto Carrying Place trail during epic canoe trips into the heart of the continent, led by Indigenous guides. And Margaret Clyne, the adopted daughter of the Haudenosaunee Chief Joseph Brant, once travelled the entire length of the lake by herself, though she did follow the shoreline and sleep on the beach at night.
Clarke's boast was still a bold one, though. He thought he'd be able to paddle straight across the lake without stopping. At his furthest point, he'd be more than twenty kilometres from the nearest land. He would have to fight big waves and creeping exhausting. If the weather turned sour, there would be no one there to help. It was an extremely dangerous proposition. There was a reason the Excelsior Club didn't think anyone had ever tried it before.
But J. Clarke had a secret weapon. He knew Preston Bryant.
Bryant was an exceptional oarsman. While Clarke was originally from Barbados, Bryant was a Black American who'd made a new home for himself in Toronto. And the trip across Lake Ontario wouldn't be his only attempt at performing an astonishing feat in a canoe. A year later, he would make an even more incredible journey.
It was at dawn on a June day in 1920 that Bryant would set out alone from the Toronto Harbour Commission Building at the foot of Bay Street. (It's still there today, though we've filled in more land around it.) With him, he carried a letter from the Mayor of Toronto that he promised to deliver to the Mayor of New York City. He was planning a solo expedition of more than a thousand kilometres — from Toronto to New York — and was accepting bets against his claim he'd be able to do it in twenty-five days or less.
That trip would be even more hazardous and draining than the one Clarke was proposing. During Bryant's solo crossing of Lake Ontario, the weather would sweep him so far off course that he was sure he was going to be pushed all the way back to Toronto. He'd originally hoped to reach the far shore before nightfall, but instead he was still struggling against the waves as the sun set. He would be alone out there for hours in the dark. By the time he finally paddled his way into Port Dalhousie and set foot on solid ground, it was 2:30 in the morning. He'd been on the water for more than twenty hours.
And that was just the beginning. Next, he paddled all the way up the Welland Canal and east along Lake Erie. As he neared Buffalo, the weather turned again. This time, it was even worse. He was battered by wind and waves; his life seems to have been in real danger. According to some reports, he hadn't even brought a life belt with him. When he was spotted by the United States Coast Guard, they offered to save him from the storm. But he refused their help. He was determined to make the journey under his own power. He made it to Buffalo alone.
From there, he headed east through New York State, travelling along the Erie Canal, the New York State Barge Canal, and the Mohawk River. Night after night, he slept alone under his overturned canoe as his only protection against the elements. There were days the weather was so bad he didn't make any progress at all. He prepared his own meals and began losing weight at an alarming rate. By the time he reached Albany, he'd been travelling for two and a half weeks. But now, at least, it would be a straight run down the Hudson River. Those final two hundred kilometres only took him two days to cover.
He arrived in New York City at dusk on a Sunday night, rowing up to a boathouse on the Hudson, somewhere near the northern tip of Manhattan. He was exhausted but triumphant. It had only been twenty days since he left Toronto. He'd won his bet, but it did come at a cost. He'd lost nine pounds in fewer than three weeks and had to be checked into the hospital before he could get back on his feet.
His mission was a success. His letter to the Mayor of New York was delivered and he was given a reply to take home with him to Toronto. This time, he would travel by more modern means. Back home again less than a week later, he declared that his next challenge would be a crossing of the English Channel. And though I have yet to find any record of that attempt, it's clear Preston Bryant was one of the most daring canoeists in the modern history of our city.
So, who better to join J. Clarke on his voyage across Lake Ontario?
It all started well enough. They set out at sunrise — six in the morning — on that July day. They'd only been out on the water for an hour by the time they lost sight of land. They were making good progress. But there was still a long way to go.
They decided to follow the same route across the lake that the steamships used. So, they occasionally had company out there. A little before 11 o'clock, the Chippewa passed by on its own journey south. The big steamer got within about fifteen metres or so. It must have tossed up some pretty rough waves in its wake, but it was worth it. There was a familiar face on board. Preston Bryant's wife waved and called out to them from the boat, surely relieved to see that her husband was alive and well.
Still, they were nowhere near the end of their journey. It would be three more hours before they finally spotted the shore, with the Escarpment rising up in the distance. And by then, the weather had begun to turn. A gale blew up as they reached the last few kilometres, the waves getting bigger and bigger as the two men paddled toward Niagara, toward land, toward safety. Their lives were in the balance, but they were confident in their craft. They were paddling a big sixteen-foot canoe made by the famous Peterborough Canoe Company. The firm had been founded a couple of decades earlier in the same city where you'll find the Canadian Canoe Museum today. It was a sturdy thing, made of cedar and covered in canvas. As the storm raged around them, the canoe kept them afloat. And as it did, they found the wind actually started being a help; as the gale blew, the waves picked them up and hurried them toward their destination.
Finally, at 2:40 in the afternoon, they reached dry land, coming ashore at Niagara-on-the-Lake about nine hours after they'd left Toronto.
They'd done it. Preston Bryant and J. Clarke had canoed across Lake Ontario, the first in the modern history of our city daring enough to do it.
The Festival of Bizarre Toronto History is just Two Weeks Away!
The Festival of Bizarre Toronto History is now just twelve days away! I’ve been hard at work putting together the schedule and am very excited about the wonderful storytellers who’ll be joining during the first week of June to dive into some of our city’s strangest stories. I can finally unveil much of what we’ll be up to — with more announcements to come!
You’ll find all the new details below and more information at www.bizarretoronto.com.
The Weirdest Contests in Toronto History
Our city has been home to some truly strange contests over the years. We'll spend the festival's Wednesday night talking about some of the weirdest of them all — from the girl who killed more than a half a million flies, to the mothers who raced to have as many babies as they could — with three wonderful storytellers.
Katie Daubs is a journalist with The Toronto Star and the author of The Missing Millionaire, a finalist for The Toronto Book Award in 2020. Craig Baird is the host of the Canadian History Ehx podcast and the author of the new book, Canada's Main Street: The Epic Story of the Trans-Canada Highway. Katherine Taylor is the author of Toronto: City of Commerce 1800–1960 and the One Gal's Toronto blog.
— Wednesday, June 4 at 8pm —
A Walk Through Toronto’s Weird Medical History
Our city's medical history is filled with bizarre tales from days gone by. In this downtown walk led by nurse and tour guide Natalia Dankovtseva of 416 Walks, we'll explore strange tales about doctors, nurses and patients from Toronto's past. From the biggest medical scandal in our country's history, to hidden birthdays, a rooftop school, and a Communist celebrated as a Canadian hero, we'll learn about the unexpected stories of Torontonian healthcare.
— Saturday, June 7 at 3:30pm —
An Even More Bizarre Tour of Mount Pleasant Cemetery
Chantal Morris is back! The creator of the wildly popular Toronto Cemetery Tours has been part of the Festival of Bizarre Toronto History since the beginning, including the very first tour ever given at the festival. For that edition, she shared some of the weirdest tales to be found among the graves of Mount Pleasant Cemetery. And this year, she's taking us back to where it all started! On Sunday afternoon, we'll head out on another hunt for even more of the bizarre tales hidden among those headstones.
— Sunday, June 8 at 1pm —
A Truly Gruesome Tour of Downtown Toronto
From gory hangings to deadly Victorian diseases, the history of Toronto is filled with some thoroughly nauseating tales. On the final day of the festival, we'll head downtown with tour guide extraordinaire Alex Sein, the Bearded Professor, to dig up some exceptionally morbid stories. And in the process, we'll see what they have to teach us about what life was once like in our city. This one is not for the faint of heart!
— Sunday, June 8 at 4:30pm —
Toronto Sports History at Doors Open
Doors Open is happening this week! This year, I’ve been working with the team behind it on a couple of big events for that weekend. Since the theme for this year’s festival is “Play,” both are going to be focused on the history of sports in the city. I’ve been helping to organize the keynote panel for the opening night and I’ll leading a brand new walking tour, too!
THE OPENING KEYNOTE PANEL ABOUT SPORTS & TORONTO’S CIVIC IDENTITY
In this keynote event, moderated by historian Adam Bunch, a panel of experts in the history and culture of Toronto sports will explore those fascinating stories and the ways they've shaped the city's identity — for better and for worse. Toronto has been deeply shaped by the sports played here, by the stories of its athletes and its teams. These dramatic events have played out in front of huge crowds and been followed by generations of fans, profoundly influencing the way Torontonians see themselves and their city.
Come a little early with your skates to take advantage of Mattamy Athletic Centre's indoor ice rink — and skate in the same space that historic Toronto sports legends have made history.
When: Thursday, May 22 at 6pm (public skate begins at 4:30pm)
Where: Mattamy Athletic Centre (the old Maple Leaf Gardens at 50 Carlton Street)
How Much: Free with registration!
THE TRIUMPHS & TRAGEDIES OF TORONTO’S SPORTS ICONS — MY NEW WALKING TOUR
You can learn a lot about a city through the stories of the athletes it has celebrated and cheered on. Toronto’s past is filled with dramatic tales of sports heroes who have brought us championships and heartbreak – and shaped our city in the process. In this walk, we’ll trace that history through downtown Toronto and the waterfront, visiting long-lost stadiums, exploring Edwardian victory parades and uncovering stories of forgotten glories. Discover inspiring tales about icons – from Tom Longboat to Terry Fox, and Babe Ruth to Joe Carter – and learn about the impact their athletic exploits have had on the city’s identity.
When: Saturday, May 24 & Sunday, May 25 at 12pm & 3:30pm each day. The tour will last about 1.5 hrs.
Where: The walk starts at King & Simcoe and ends on the waterfront near the foot of Bathurst Street.
How Much: Free with registration!
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QUICK LINKS
The best of everything new in Toronto’s past…
STEAMY NEWS — Allan Gardens’ beloved Palm House reopened to the public last week at the end of a long restoration. You can read more about it thanks to CBC News. Read more.
BOMBING NEWS — Katherine Taylor shares the unexpectedly dramatic story of an old fruit shop on Kingston Road. Read more.
VILLAGE NEWS — Eric Sehr continues his project exploring the history of Brockton Village with a new post looking at early landowners in the community: “The Sheriff, Secretary, Commander, Widow, and Father-in-Law.” Read more.
TORONTO HISTORY EVENTS
THE DON: THE STORY OF TORONTO’S INFAMOUS JAIL
May 21 — 6pm — North York Central Library
May 24 — 1pm — Riverdale Library
June 18 — 7pm — Don Mills Library
“Join True Crime author and historian, Lorna Poplak as she presents an illustrated talk that will focus on an in-depth exploration of the Don Jail from its inception through jailbreaks and overcrowding to its eventual shuttering and rebirth. The program will highlight stories about inmates, guards, governors, gangs and officials. Q&A to follow. Signed books available for purchase.”
Free!
Learn more at the links above.
ONCE UPON A TIME IN CHINATOWN: THE EVOLUTION OF CHINESE DESSERTS
May 21 — 7pm — North York Central Library
“Join Gordon Lam, Koby Song-Nichols, and Chiyi Tam for a deep dive into the rich history and cultural significance of Chinese desserts. This discussion will explore the evolution of Chinese sweets in Toronto, from traditional to modern favourites. Audience Q & A to follow.”
Free with registration!
THE BEACHES: CREATION OF A TORONTO NEIGHBOURHOOD
May 27 — 2pm — Taylor Memorial Library
May 29 — 2pm — Victoria Village Library
June 12 — 7pm — Beaches Library
“Local historian, Richard White, presents his book, The Beaches: Creation of a Toronto neighbourhood with an illustrated lecture recounting several key aspects of the history of Toronto's Beaches neighbourhood, drawing from the author's book. Richard White is a historian, author, and former lecturer of Canadian history and urban planning history at the University of Toronto.”
Free!
Learn more at the links above.
JUSTICE SERVED: WHEN COPS AND COURTS GET IT RIGHT
May 27 — 6:30pm — Toronto Reference Library
“Interested in true crime? Toronto Reference Library is hosting a monthly True Crime Series of panel discussions with some of Canada's top crime writers. This month panelists: Peter Edwards, Toronto Star reporter and author of several blockbuster true-crime books about bikers and gangs. Peter Vronsky, the best-selling author of multiple accounts of murder and mayhem. Peter will give a recent update on the work he has been doing with the recent Richard Cottingham ‘Torso Serial Killer' cold case murder investigations in the United States. Moderator: Nate Hendley, renowned and award-winning author of The Beatle Bandit and other true-crime books.”
Free!
THE 52: STORIES OF WOMEN WHO TRANSFORMED TORONTO
Until December 20 — Wednesday to Saturday, 12pm to 6pm — Museum of Toronto
“Did you know that 52% of Torontonians are women? Join Museum of Toronto as we bring their stories to life. The 52 is a project that celebrates the impact that women have had on our city, the world, and beyond. Building on a multi-year research project, our newest exhibition will celebrate the lives of 52 women who have shaped Toronto as we know it. Spanning from the 1800s until today, this exhibition shines a spotlight on the change-makers, rebels, and revolutionaries within Toronto’s 52%. While some of these women’s stories are well known, others have gone relatively untold until today. See how many names you are familiar to you — step into their shoes, learn their stories and discover the ways they have transformed Toronto.”
Free! Donation suggested.
Well done, presented and written. A keelboat sailor, I know how challenging Lake Ontario can be!
It just floors me that so many years ago with no assurance other than bravado and confidence aplenty, there were people who would dare such a voyage.
Thank you T3
Love this story about the journey from Toronto to NYC. Too bad there aren’t any records of Bryant’s trip down the Mohawk River and the Erie Canal. Thanks for writing this.